Stupid (or at least naive) type 110 punch down block questions

[Bob Armstrong]

I'm installing a wiring closet (well, a wiring wall in the garage)
in my house, and I'm using type 110 punch down blocks for the CAT-5
and POTS connections. There's plenty of references to type 110 blocks
on the internet, but pitifully little about the conventions for using
one.

For example, each frame holds up to 50 pairs in two rows of 25. Each
row is marked off every 5 pairs (10 wires) with a little black mark,
AND the standard paper label is also divided up the same way. When
you're wiring up CAT5 cables, do people typically put one cable per
group of ten and waste the extra pair, thus getting 10 CAT5s per
frame? Or do you stuff the pairs one after another and ignore the
divisions?

And I notice that the C110 connector blocks are helpfully marked
with the pair colors, but which side gets the striped and the solid in
CAT5 cable? And does the blue pair typically appear on the left or
the right ?

Yes, yes - I know it doesn't matter and I can do it anyway I want as
long as I'm consistent, but if there's a standard practice I'd like to
follow it.

I'd love to see a few closeup pictures of a properly wired 110
block, if somebody can post a pointer.

Thanks!
Bob

P.S. And when you insert the permanent wiries in the frame (i.e.
before you insert the C110 blocks), do you actually punch those down
with a punchdown tool? Od do you just put them in the slot and then
let the connector block punch them down?

[Gary]

Post by Bob Armstrong
For example, each frame holds up to 50 pairs in two rows of 25. Each
row is marked off every 5 pairs (10 wires) with a little black mark,
AND the standard paper label is also divided up the same way. When
you're wiring up CAT5 cables, do people typically put one cable per
group of ten and waste the extra pair, thus getting 10 CAT5s per
frame?

"Connector Blocks" are available in four and five pair widths. I use the
four pair wide blocks for four pair cable.

Post by Bob Armstrong
And I notice that the C110 connector blocks are helpfully marked
with the pair colors, but which side gets the striped and the solid in
CAT5 cable? And does the blue pair typically appear on the left or
the right ?

I don't know any official standard for which side the strip goes on. I
picked one and stuck with it.

As for the connector block, blue is on the left. However, you don't get to
choose as it only fits one way.

Post by Bob Armstrong
P.S. And when you insert the permanent wiries in the frame (i.e.
before you insert the C110 blocks), do you actually punch those down
with a punchdown tool? Od do you just put them in the slot and then
let the connector block punch them down?

Just put them in the frame and punch the block onto it. The block has the
metal "teeth" that need to be punched. It's best to punch it using a
tool with a connector punch down head. Failing that, a standard punch down
will work but you'll have to work all four or five pairs. I've even
(carefully) used a hammer; but I don't recommend it.

Much of this will be obvious when you get the actual parts.

-Gary

[Doug McIntyre]

Post by Bob Armstrong
I'm installing a wiring closet (well, a wiring wall in the garage)
in my house, and I'm using type 110 punch down blocks for the CAT-5
and POTS connections. There's plenty of references to type 110 blocks
on the internet, but pitifully little about the conventions for using
one.
For example, each frame holds up to 50 pairs in two rows of 25. Each
row is marked off every 5 pairs (10 wires) with a little black mark,
AND the standard paper label is also divided up the same way. When
you're wiring up CAT5 cables, do people typically put one cable per
group of ten and waste the extra pair, thus getting 10 CAT5s per
frame? Or do you stuff the pairs one after another and ignore the
divisions?

*Your* frame holds 50 pair. There's plenty of other styles and # of pairs.
Although the 50 pair one is pretty popular.
Also, you can get the connector blocks in any number of pairs. I
typically buy them with 4 pair blocks (and then the last one is 5 pairs,
and the last pair is typically wasted).

This goes back to older telco wiring. Ie. 66 blocks have a notch every
5 pairs to match up to the color codes which are in groups of 5, etc. etc.

If I had 5 pair connector blocks, I'd still do it 6*4 across the strip.
I wouldn't do 5 with a gap inbetween each. Even with the 5-pair
connector clips, most "kits" ship with labels that have the 3 pair, 4 pair
and 5 pair seperations on them, you just fold it the right way to display.

Even if they ship with 4 pair connector blocks, the lacing frame is typically
marked at 5 pair intervals, you just work around it.

Post by Bob Armstrong
And I notice that the C110 connector blocks are helpfully marked
with the pair colors, but which side gets the striped and the solid in
CAT5 cable? And does the blue pair typically appear on the left or
the right ?

110's go left to right. The striped wire of the pair is always the
first, just like on 66's or other telco blocks and plugs. Color order
is always the same, blue, orange, green, brown, slate.

Post by Bob Armstrong
Yes, yes - I know it doesn't matter and I can do it anyway I want as
long as I'm consistent, but if there's a standard practice I'd like to
follow it.

And if its down to the convention, somebody else can work on it in
the future..

Post by Bob Armstrong
I'd love to see a few closeup pictures of a properly wired 110
block, if somebody can post a pointer.

I don't necessarily agree with the way he does everything,
but this guy does pretty good samples and pictures.

http://www.homephonewiring.com/blocks.html

Post by Bob Armstrong
P.S. And when you insert the permanent wiries in the frame (i.e.
before you insert the C110 blocks), do you actually punch those down
with a punchdown tool? Od do you just put them in the slot and then
let the connector block punch them down?

Note, I do like my tools, but this job is one where I believe that
the dedicated 5-pair 110 block punch down tool is really worth the
money vs. using a regular punch down tool if you do it more than once.
If you are doing it just once, then, it may not be worth it.

I lace all the wires into the frame, and punch them down to trim them
with the 5-pair tool. Then I punch down the connecting clips with the
5-pair tool for all in the row. The wires hold in the wiring frame
well enough for that period without falling out, since they are just
friction fit in the plastic fingers before the connecting clip goes on.

[Carl Navarro]

Post by Bob Armstrong
I'm installing a wiring closet (well, a wiring wall in the garage)
in my house, and I'm using type 110 punch down blocks for the CAT-5
and POTS connections. There's plenty of references to type 110 blocks
on the internet, but pitifully little about the conventions for using
one.
For example, each frame holds up to 50 pairs in two rows of 25. Each
row is marked off every 5 pairs (10 wires) with a little black mark,
AND the standard paper label is also divided up the same way. When
you're wiring up CAT5 cables, do people typically put one cable per
group of ten and waste the extra pair, thus getting 10 CAT5s per
frame? Or do you stuff the pairs one after another and ignore the
divisions?

Actually, the wiring frame is marked in 5 pair increments, because a
standard cable is 5 pairs per color. If you are running 4 pair cables
to the block, you terminate 6 cables per row, in order.

Post by Bob Armstrong
And I notice that the C110 connector blocks are helpfully marked
with the pair colors, but which side gets the striped and the solid in
CAT5 cable? And does the blue pair typically appear on the left or
the right ?

Your cqbles terminate from left to right or top to bottom in TR
fashion, so that mans the White/Blue wire is first, then Blue/White.
If your cable is solid white, then solid blue I'd be a bit concerned
that it is NEVER going to be Cat-5e. That tends to be outdoor cable.

Post by Bob Armstrong
Yes, yes - I know it doesn't matter and I can do it anyway I want as
long as I'm consistent, but if there's a standard practice I'd like to
follow it.
I'd love to see a few closeup pictures of a properly wired 110
block, if somebody can post a pointer.
Thanks!
Bob
P.S. And when you insert the permanent wiries in the frame (i.e.
before you insert the C110 blocks), do you actually punch those down
with a punchdown tool? Od do you just put them in the slot and then
let the connector block punch them down?

There is a specific tool designed to terminate C connectors, but you
can use a 110 tool to terminate the wires in the frame. Your problem
is getting the C clips to seat properly.. I've seen people use a soft
block of wood and a hammer, I've used a 110 tool to seat the left and
right side of a clip, but the $70-100 tool is the best.

A search engine query of wiring 110 blocks will give you many results.
Something in the order of this
http://cableorganizer.com/phone-data-connection-blocks/110-installation-instructions.htm

No matter what it says, I always line up the first C connector and
punch it down, then the rest just fall into place. I'd never even try
to balance a clip on the tool :-)

Carl